Хапваме козунак едва от век

Хапваме козунак едва от век Лакомник

Родината му е Полша. В Грузия посрещат Великден с торта

Хапваме козунак едва от век
Автор:Лакомник

Козунаците, които днес се замесват във всяка българска къща, са част от трапезата ни едва от век. За съжаление, традицията навлиза късно у нас и то като градска мода. Според родните етнографи, в действителност този прекрасен сладкиш се е родил в земите на Полша или дори Франция и е дошъл до нас с помощта на търговци. Козунаци се месят в Централна Европа още от XVII век. За някалко столетия рецептите за вкусните сладкиши достигат до Румъния. И така, през около 1915-1920 година, сладкото тесто навлиза у нас и става част от задължителния обряд. Едва тогава бабите са усвоили методите за замесване, които и до днес предават на наследниците си, макар и в началото рецептата да се е предавала само между домакините в големите градове. Това се доказва и от мемоарите на много от представителите на елита до 1944 година. Не един и двама от тях споменават, че в засуканите софийски кафенета можело да поръча кафе с резен козунак.

Какво сме слагали на масата дотогава? Само обреден хляб, който се прави и до днес по различни поводи. Името му може да е колак, пармак, кравай.

Макар и традицията да е една от най-новите у нас, тя вече е вкоренена и й се придават мистични свойства. Затова се смята, че замесването на козунак е истинско свещенодействие, а с тестото може да се занимава само опитна домакиня.

Вече няма европейска страна, в която да не се прави подобен чуден сладкиш за цялото семейство. Само имената му са различни. В Италия го наричат "панетоне" и в него почти задължително присъства шоколад, стафиди и много ядки. Специалистите казват, че именно той се доближава най-много до нашенския сладкиш. Но и той няма дълга традиция. Пекарите са категорични, че се появява едва след края на Първата световна война. Негови автори са двама хлебари от Милано. Анджело Мота и Джоакино Алеманя започнали да правят печива с ядки, портокалови и лимонови корички и още много неща. За да се различават от конкуренцията, те правели тестените си произведения на изкуството във формата на папска тиара. Но италианците разбира се имат и друга версия по въпроса, която е доста по-романтична за толкова официален християнски празник. Смята се, че още през XV век един благородник се влюбил в приказна красавица на име Тони. Баща й бил хлебар и младежът се престорил на чирак, за да е близо до нея. Направил козунак и го кръстил на нея. Но версиите не свършват дотук. Историците разказват, че в основата на рецептата е миланският дук Сфорца. По време на една Коледа на трапезата му нямало десерт. За да няма наказания, младият пекар Тони се опитал да успокои буйния нрав на монарха и му направил козунак от наличните продукти.

По-големи разлики в рецептите има в останалите европейски страни. Гърците държат в тестото да има някаква много ароматна есенция. Словенците и хърватите пък са едни от най-големите традиционалисти и не обичат козунаците им да имат много добавки. Най-важното е обаче върху сладкиша да има кръст от тестото. Ако сте на гости на английско семейство обаче, не се надявайте да хапнете нещо сладко. Там се слага само традиционен хляб, омесен като пита, който е гарниран с още 12 тестени топки. Те символизират християнските апостоли. Мексиканците пък са още по-екзотични по отношение на козунака и в него добавят много неща като например стафиди, карамфил и дори сирене. Местните хора казват, че всяко едно от тях символизира страдание на Христос. Грузинската версия е още по-интересна. Техният обреден сладкиш на практика и торта от крем и блат.

Въпреки че народите, които празнуват Великден, приемат козунака за свещен, истината е, че Църквата не е признала нито яйцата, нито традиционния сладкиш за част от ритуала по празнуването на Възкресението Христово. Според Божиите служители трапезата трябва да е богата и блажна, а всеки да слага на нея каквото реши. 

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